Just the smell of it
The New England leg starts in Rhode Island, and Newport takes us straight to the epicenter of US sailing. You can’t get more sailing tradition than that.
In fact, this is the first time in a long while that motorboats appear to be outnumbered. Sailing ships dominate the scene, and the few motorboats out and about are mostly beautiful, old wooden models. Meanwhile, hobby fishermen in towering plastic tubs are nowhere to be seen.
Before us lies the prestigious New York Yacht Club estate. Newport hosted the America’s Cup for many years, which the NYYC held for 132 years — the longest winning streak in sporting history. We are fortunate to be guests at the clubhouse for the day and are enjoying the spectacular view in perfect Aperol weather. However, this estate isn’t the only impressive site in Newport; the city is also home to several 19th-century summer residences. The Vanderbilt mansion on the cliffs is probably the most prominent example of these industrialists’ breathtaking homes.
The summer sun attracts hordes of visitors. Day trippers sweat as they do their duty, and the panoramic trail along the cliff resembles an ant trail. Nevertheless, the remote roads are also a delight for walkers. We are keen to come back here again in the fall.
Sweet sweet Cuttyhunk
After the charming stopover in Newport, the radio started buzzing again. Since Norfolk, it has rarely been silent. There have been announcements on channel 16 for army ships, bridge repairs, arrangements in foggy conditions, kayakers in distress, boat fires, traffic separation zones, and friendly greetings. But above all, there are the endless tests by radio owners. “Hello, everyone (or Coast Guard), can you hear us clearly?” Yes, yes. Perhaps these tests are mandatory in the US. We don’t know, but we’re glad to mute our device at Cuttyhunk.
Compared to Block Island, it’s extremely quiet here. On our hike to the island’s viewpoint, we meet very few people. Nonetheless, the harbor kiosk is open, and we try the stuffed baked mussels.
The cuisine is nice, but what sticks in our minds is the smell that we already noticed on Long Island. Bushes, trees, hedges, shrubs, flowers — everything is blooming like crazy and smells wonderful wherever you go. Sometimes the scent is so strong and floral that with your eyes closed, you feel like you’re standing in a perfume shop. The olfactory impression is overwhelming, to say the least. From now on, New England will always be a scent for us.
The Great White Shark in Martha’s Vineyard
The current pushes us at two knots through Vineyard Sound toward Edgartown. Against the backdrop of an orange evening sky, we arrive in the main town of Martha’s Vineyard. The town is as picturesque as its setting. Its streets look like a mixture of an open-air museum and Disneyland. Everything is so pretty, neat, and cozy that you wouldn’t be surprised if theme park music came out of the bushes. The soundtrack to Jaws would be most fitting, as the film is currently the center of attention. Exactly 50 years ago, Steven Spielberg’s legendary film was released in theaters, and Edgartown still benefits from having been the fictional town of Amity in the film. In any case, the filming locations are easily recognizable.
Getting cozy in Nantucket
We immediately feel at home in Nantucket. Since most tourists from the mainland arrive by plane or ferry, the anchorage outside the harbor is empty, thankfully, and we have no trouble finding a spot. The beach glistens in the sunlight. If we had to draw a comparison, Germans would probably liken Nantucket, an expensive, scenic, and popular vacation destination, to Sylt.
The historic streets are crowded but still invite you to stroll around. There is something to see everywhere. Free shuttle buses run to the island brewery. If you want to travel across the island, you can take one of the free buses. Children will enjoy the great playgrounds, long beaches with seals in the water, and the cozy library. We learn that Nantucket was a whaling center in the 18th century and is featured in Moby-Dick.
Of course, everything here is also blooming, fragrant, and green. Even our air plant is joining in. Every morning, we are greeted by a different scene: sometimes thick fog, sometimes bright sunshine, and sometimes passing rain showers over the water. It’s difficult to leave behind all the comforts and wonderful atmosphere. But new shores and a haul out at a shipyard in Canada await us.