So far, Nova Scotia has been a wonderful place for boatwork. With a repainted hull, a functioning centerboard, and a new propeller, we, nevertheless, venture out of the marina to explore the area’s beauty.

The Hordes in Peggy’s Cove

It starts with a fishing village with about 30 inhabitants and infinitely more visitors. With its scenery, rocky landscape, and lighthouse, Peggy’s Cove is one of Nova Scotia’s main attractions.Vacationers from cruise ships climb over the smooth stone slabs like ants. It’s no wonder they chose to take the bus tour here; the scenery truly is perfect. A stone’s throw away, in similarly impressive surroundings, stands a memorial to a Swissair plane that crashed tragically in 2021.

City vibes in Halifax

Viewed from the harbor promenade, Halifax seems somewhat dull. The shops, restaurants, and food stalls are very generic in design. After adding a few more perspectives, however, the city grows on us. There are museums, spacious parks, sports facilities, cozy streets, and culture around every corner. In the deep side bay where we anchor, there are many grand villas to look at.

Sambro or strobe effects in time lapse

A mystical fog descends upon Sambro as we stop there for the night. Upon arrival, we can’t see more than five boat lengths ahead. During our dinghy trip to a small island, the sun is already beginning to peek through, and a little later, on the walk to dinner in town, it’s hard to imagine that just a short time ago, we couldn’t see a thing. The weather indulges in its whims.

Inland sailing at Cape Breton

All the Canadians we have met so far have sent us towards Cape Breton in Bras d’Or. And who are we to ignore their recommendations? So we obediently sail from the north into the quasi-lake. This requires accurate planning, as the current through the narrow channel is treacherous. Once there, however, the current doesn’t quite meet our expectations. But just as we think we’ve planned wrong, it shifts and pushes us through the fog into the sheltered inland waters. Half an hour earlier, contrary to the forecast, the wind was blowing right in our faces. It was damp and foggy, and the air smelled intensely of forest.

Our destination is Baddeck. There, we are greeted by a small lighthouse and Beinn Bhreagh, the former residence of Alexander Graham Bell. We want to learn more about him in the town museum. However, the corridors are crowded with visitors, all trying to unravel the inventor’s complex biography. We cool our swirling heads on the beach, where the water is warm enough for even the children to swim.

Wir wollen zügig die Schleuse im Süden des Bras d’Or und damit wieder das offene Meer erreichen. Leider weht uns der Wind wieder ordentlich entgegen, sodass wir mühsam aufkreuzen und vor der Klappbrücke in Narrow Straits ankern. Erst um fünf Uhr früh, ist der Wind friedlich und der Tidenstrom passend, sodass wir den Brückenwärter anfunken und bitten, die Brücke für uns aufkzulappen. Bis wir die nächste Brücke – diesmal ein drehendes Modell – und die dahinterliegende Schleuse erreichen, motorsegeln wir durch eine lauschig grüne Gegend. 

Time is ticking because we are expecting family visitors in Maine at the end of the month. Before they arrive, we have to weather the first hurricane of the season. We’re allowing ourselves a short break in Lunenburg until the wind changes and we can set off for Yarmouth. Strong currents are expected around Cape Sable. We do the math again and start the leg so that we can round the headland around midnight. It will be the best sailing we’ve had in a long time before the wind goes to sleep at night. After all the uncomfortable sailing recently, such a wonderful day is exactly what we need.

For several hours, a heavy smell of burning lingered in the air, briefly irritating us. A quick Google search reveals that a forest is burning in northern Nova Scotia, and the smoke is blowing far across the sea. There has hardly been any rain in recent weeks, which increases the risk of forest fires throughout Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. Therefore, the authorities have imposed a strict ban on hiking. Hiking, jogging, picnicking, or entering the forest is strictly prohibited. While this may seem like a harsh measure, it still does not appear to be enough to prevent fires.

Waiting out the weather in Yarmouth

Yarmouth proves to be tranquil and largely free of tourists. After a long time, we moor at a marina jetty again and feel prepared for the wind and waves of Storm Erin. The fast ferry to Maine also remains in port for safety reasons. Ultimately, however, the storm passes us by, and we gather blackberries by the side of the road in peace.