When it comes to sailing on the US East Coast, there’s really no way around Chesapeake Bay. And yet, in spring, we managed to bypass it.

On the way back south, we decided to take an inland detour. This time, we will gladly turn our backs on the inhospitable Atlantic Ocean. The winds are unpredictable, and storm fronts pass over us every few days. They set the pace for our travels. This makes the deep bay, with all its hiding places, all the more appealing.

With still favorable winds, we first reach Delaware Bay. Right at the entrance, we drop anchor off Cape Henlopen. The nearly 300-nautical-mile leg from Newport was quite a leap. Our bodies enjoy the exercise in the dune landscape and our spirits revel in the golden evening atmosphere.

The next morning, freight traffic makes for an entertaining continuation of our journey. Despite the almost perfect sailing conditions, we don’t make it to the canal connecting Delaware Bay with Chesapeake Bay in time. It would have gotten dark there, and the current would have been against us. So, we stop again before the canal entrance. However, the anchoring conditions are uncomfortable, and the nuclear power plant across from us is not exactly a thing of beauty. Time is pressing because the next strong wind bringing 45 knots of wind is imminent.

We would have preferred to avoid the delay, so we are relieved to pull the anchor from the muddy seabed at first light. Although the current in the channel should slow us down, we make surprisingly good progress toward the Chesapeake Bay, passing under bridges and through peaceful autumn landscapes along the way.

The autumn idyll reaches its peak along the Sassafras River. The leaves glow, and it seems as if the animals walked through the sand just for us, so we can practice tracking. Our best guess is a raccoon, a deer, a fox, and a crane.

Peak of the Halloween season

Halloween isn’t limited to just one day. Weeks in advance, houses and front yards are decorated, and pumpkins are placed on doorsteps. We had already discovered the actual Halloween hotspot in Salem. The 1692 witch trials turned the town into a pilgrimage site for Halloween enthusiasts and inspired a Halloween-themed city. Those who weren’t wearing full costumes at least sported felt witch hats. Unfortunately, we only carried our staysail through the streets to drop it off at the sailmaker’s.

We experience the actual Halloween celebrations in Baltimore. It is windy, but for once Nikola is moored at a dock in the marina. This is unusual, since Mindelo we have only moored at a dock for a few days in Canada to wait out a hurricane. Despite the gusts, we easily manage to disembark dry and explore the city. Crab cakes await, cozy neighborhoods want to be explored, and beer wants to be enjoyed in churches. Since the Halloween icon Edgar Allan Poe is buried in Baltimore, we pay him a visit as well. In the end, the detour here was well worth it. After a successful trick-or-treat through the neighborhood, we sail past the tragically collapsed Baltimore Bridge and continue south.

Sailing in the Chesapeake Bay

Traveling in the Chesapeake Bay is a very special experience. It’s no wonder so many boats spend the hurricane season here. It’s like sailing on an inland lake. That’s not to say the waves can’t get uncomfortable and cause chaos on board. Regattas, busy freight traffic, fishing buoys, and shoals provide additional entertainment. Around every corner, though, there’s a sheltered bay with picturesque, peaceful scenery. So, we join the convoy of ships heading south. Like migratory birds, the boats and their freezing passengers continue on to warmer climates.

In Solomons, we are nestled in tiny bays. And actually, we anchor almost in the front yards of the surrounding houses. It is a secluded spot, far away from the worries of this world. However, we quickly continue on to Deltaville, where we will find packages containing spare parts and additional solar panels, as well as old and new acquaintances.

The signs are becoming clearer

The new year brings a change of territory. We will venture into the Pacific, leaving behind great sailing grounds and a group of beloved sailors who are either staying in the Caribbean or heading back to Europe. It’s wonderful to meet more and more sailors who also want to go through the Panama Canal. Our plan is slowly becoming more real, and we no longer feel so reckless with our project.