The air grows cooler and the water grows murkier. The feeling is almost homely. One thing is certain, though: the Caribbean is definitely a few hundred nautical miles behind us.

Beaufort with a thick ‘O’

The last stretch drags on. Especially because whole swarms of horsefly-like flies attack us far out at sea. The arrival in Beaufort is all the sweeter. Sheltered behind offshore islands and a nature reserve, a new, fascinating world opens up. There are long sandy beaches, flat marshland, and the beguiling scent of lilacs in bloom: we have arrived in North Carolina. Not to be confused with the Beaufort in South Carolina. Before delving into the intricacies of the two places’ different pronunciations, however, we find a place to anchor in the narrow Taylor Creek, between the marina and the Rachel Carson Reserve. Finally, the tide and current return, and the boats swing merrily from right to left with the tides.

On our way to the well-hidden immigration office, the Uber driver gives us a first impression of the area, with its well-maintained streets and various harbors where hundreds of recreational fishermen’s highly motorized boats are piled up. The fresh stamp in our passport makes us enthusiastic. Instead of driving all the way back by car, we walk to a nearby organic market and each devour a remarkably sized locally produced ice cream sandwich.

It seems as if we are in Wonderland! The people are incredibly friendly, and the small streets are almost car-free, making them perfect for cycling and jogging. The huge playground has a water park and air-conditioned restrooms. There are taco trucks, enchanting wooden houses, local breweries, small cafés, a coworking space, and many other amenities. One highlight is the weekly Saturday market, a regular meeting place for locals. The home-roasted peanuts from a group of Methodist men taste fantastic, and the strawberries at the stands glow a promising red.

The nature reserve across from us is home to wild horses that sometimes graze in front of Nikola’s bow. Dolphins live in the surrounding waters. At first, we only hear them and are surprised by the clicking noises that start every evening around 8 pm. It took us a while to realize that these noises came from the dolphins, who came into the estuary from the sea in the evening and had a lively conversation. We continue to enjoy swimming in the water. At around 20 °C, the water is not cold enough to make swimming unpleasant. The current is also ideal: You can swim on the spot at a moderate pace while keeping an eye on the child digging in the sand.

Bad luck and mishaps in Norfolk

Finally, the weather is nice enough to allow us to round Cape Hatteras. It is known for how rough it is on sailors. Its nickname, the “Graveyard of the Atlantic,” refers to the many ships that have met their end while attempting to sail around it. Over a thousand shipwrecks are said to line the coast. Sandbanks, unstable weather conditions and the meeting of the warm Gulf Stream with the cold Labrador Current from the north make the Cap what it is.

Everything is peaceful during our passage. However, the strong wind building up behind us, with gusts well over 40 knots, once again prevents us from sailing directly to New York. So we turn left behind the cape and aim for Norfolk instead. At dawn, fishing boats buzz around us like hornets, and mighty warships and aircraft carriers make their rounds.

Norfolk is the pride of the U.S. Navy. In fact, it is the largest naval base in the world. More than 75 warships are stationed in the home port of the Atlantic Fleet, and over 80,000 people are employed there. Accordingly, there is a lot going on in the waters off the port and on the radio. We anchor at a respectful distance from the historic Fort Monroe in Hampton. Until 2011, the U.S. Army was still using the largest stone-built fort on the coast before Obama declared it a national monument. Nowadays, the atmosphere is peaceful and tranquil. You can stroll, bike, and swim on the long, sandy beach undisturbed.

Before swimming is really a thing again, however, there are a few cold and uncomfortable days to get through. IIt’s pouring as we drive to the nearest mall to stock up on warmer clothes and rain boots. Then, the heat arrives. As is usual here, it brings thunderstorms with it and a brief storm does indeed defeat our anchor.For the first time on our trip, the anchor gives way, and we are dragged a few meters toward the harbor wall before we start the engine and reposition ourselves. And this despite the fact that the anchor was nearly cemented in the ground when we tried to raise it the day before for a short trip to the gas station. As soon as we were firmly back in place after the brief excitement, the light wind sail started to blow out. Only in a small area, but enough to cause a little damage when we took it down to rescue it. Misfortune rarely comes alone. Well, at least the storm didn’t hit us at sea.

Our departure to the north has already been postponed twice because of the weather. Now we want to set off even more. Every few hours we check the forecast, which remains erratic. So flounder burgers, butter prawns and the local gin do their best to sweeten the wait.