Nikola is our first boat. When we commissioned its construction, there were naturally some things we knew little about. With so many topics to consider, we didn’t have time to research everything in depth during the planning process. That’s precisely why we came to Alubat, an experienced aluminum boat shipyard.

The Ovni is available as a series model, which we were able to customize to suit our specific requirements. Although we weren’t experienced boat owners when we were planning the build, after sailing 11,000 nautical miles there isn’t much about our boat that we would have done differently in hindsight.

One issue that caught up with us sooner than we would have liked was the underwater coating of the hull. Had we discussed this issue more thoroughly with the shipyard, we would have saved ourselves time and unnecessary work on the dry dock. Since our boat is already quite heavy, we depend on the antifouling coating to prevent growth on the underwater hull, which would slow our speed through the water.

A variety of products are available that work in different ways. Sailors and experts have very different opinions about which products are most efficient. Reliable experience is rare and depends on the area and water temperature.

In any case, Nikola was launched with the shipyard’s standard configuration. This consisted of two coats of self-polishing antifouling paint (Boero Magellan 630 Extra). This paint releases a small amount of the coating along with any fouling when the boat is in the water, leaving behind a clean surface. Eventually, as the paint peels off, a new coat will need to be applied. According to the paint manufacturer, two coats will last one year in the water. Knowing this, we would have applied more coats or bought more paint to repaint the following year. Alternatively, we would have used a different paint altogether. However, Boreo hull paint is extremely difficult to obtain and even more difficult to ship. On top of that, there is a three-month lead time, hazardous goods transport, and customs issues outside the EU. Common products can be purchased in any country, but ours cannot.

Just eight months after launching, the first signs of wear and tear were already visible in the Caribbean. The black underwater paint had completely disappeared in several places, exposing the white epoxy primer underneath. All kinds of green stuff grew very well on this in the warm water. This is how our “underwater garden” project began. We were getting slower and slower. We removed the growth with diving goggles and a scraper. Barely a month later, the next cleaning was due. But by the time we reached the U.S. East Coast, the water was neither warm nor clear, so further cleaning was no fun at all. Fortunately, we had already asked for recommendations for shipyards in Canada while in the Bahamas and quickly made an appointment. In the US, the cost of a haul-out is too high and the paperwork involved takes days. Hanging in the air at Shining Waters Marina, we were asked how long we had been in the water – five years? Our experience cannot really be considered a recommendation for Boero paint.

So, what should we do? For the planned nautical miles in the coming years, we would either have to apply many layers of self-polishing antifouling paint and spend a lot of money, or repeatedly schedule appointments at shipyards for repainting. Neither option was good, so we needed a different type of paint. We opted for F2 ECO, a relatively unknown paint that promised great results. It is supposed to last five years or more with just one primer coat and one top coat. A light brushing every few months should prevent heavy fouling. This sounds perfect for our long-distance sailing plans. It is especially ideal since the paint is non-toxic and will not harm the underwater world and reefs we sail through. Additionally, it is not classified as hazardous material and can be shipped relatively easily from Europe to Canada.

We couldn’t avoid the hard work that had to be done before we could start painting. We had to sand off the remains of the old antifouling and the damaged areas of the primer. On top of that, we had to raise the waterline and prepare the aluminum hull. It took the two of us six days to complete all the sanding work.

Then the painting began, as the epoxy primer had to be reapplied evenly before F2 could be painted. We applied approximately 17 liters of two-component primer. The warm, fog-free weather and light wind helped to keep the drying times short.

Next came the F2 ECO product, an adhesive layer, and a top coat. We rounded up the quantity recommended by the dealer for an estimated 45 square meters of hull surface area to 50 square meters of paint. We expected a graphite gray result from the color variant “Sparkle Graphite.” The adhesive layer is a deep black. A tarry mass that is not diluted further. Applying the right amount is difficult, and we quickly realized that the quantity we had ordered would not be enough unless we applied it much more thinly.The result was that the snow-white primer showed through quite patchily between the uneven black tar mass. Applying the adhesive coat was quite thrilling, considering reordering would take an additional three to four weeks.

The top coat was completely transparent, with a little glitter in it. That helped at least a little to distinguish the painted areas from the unpainted areas. We would therefore not recommend a color variant without glitter. Painting the top coat is easier than the adhesive coat and the paint consumption is not quite as high. But maybe that was also because we could no longer see how much or how little paint we were applying. In any case, painting F2 was nerve-wracking. We could only hope that the paint had been applied in sufficient quantities to achieve the promised effect. Visually, the end result was patchy black with a little glitter. Even though we really like the sparkle, we had something anthracite-colored in mind and were a little disappointed with the color itself, as well as the patchy appearance.

After 36 hours, Nikola was lifted out of the water again to reposition the stilts and repaint the area underneath. A notable feature of F2 ECO is its slow drying and hardening process. It takes around 12 weeks for the coating to fully harden in water. According to the manufacturer, the boat can be lifted 36 hours after painting. At around 15 tons, Nikola is not exactly a lightweight. The shipyard applied a new, smooth plastic cover to the straps to minimize unevenness. It was quite a shock when, during lowering and removal of the straps and trestles, the F2 ECO layers were damaged and the white primer showed through.

We could easily rub off the adhesive and top coat from the primer. The hull design and its 15 tons of weight certainly didn’t help. The paint was damaged along the edges. We repaired it as best we could with the remaining paint and waited six days in ideal conditions until the second lift. More drying time, less damage, we hoped. The crane slings were treated with extra foil and water to avoid scraping the hull as much as possible. It didn’t help, and the damage was not only ugly, but also raised fears that it would worsen in the water. The shipyard left us hanging in the slings for the whole day so that we could repair it again. Our patience with the paint was at an end and our spirits were low.

Why is there no information on this topic in the product information? Could we have done something better? What is the best way to repair such damage to the paintwork? Do the holes in the paintwork get worse under water? How should the boat be transported to avoid damage to the paintwork? Is our boat unsuitable for F2 Eco due to its shape and weight? When we launched the boat, we felt more like guinea pigs than happy boat owners.

After traveling 1,000 nautical miles, at least, the repaired areas seem to be holding up and are not peeling any further. Hopefully, if it stays that way, the rest of the paintwork will serve its purpose and enable us to travel fast for a long time. The coming months and years will tell.

Conclusion to date:

• Expect to use more paint for the adheseve coat, at least if you want an even finish.

• If the final epoxy primer coat is the same color as the F2 bonding coat, the color result will probably be more even. However, you will not be able to see how well you have applied the F2 adhesive coat.

• With the glitter top coat, you can see how well you’ve applied it; with the clear F2 coat, you’re more or less painting in the dark.

• The color anthracite is pure black.

• Everything that flies through the air sticks, to the bonding layer in particular: insects, dust, etc. It is best not to paint F2 ECO outdoors if you want perfect results.

• Rain or dew running off the deck leaves ugly streaks on adhesive layer. This is another reason why it is better to apply F2 indoors, or at least clean the deck very thoroughly before painting.

• In our case, the drying time specified by the manufacturer before craning/re-blocking was not sufficient.

• The paint seems unsuitable for heavy hulls with chines.

• F2 ECO seems ideal for boats that are stored over winter and only lifted out again after several months. For long-distance sailors who are on the move and do not want to be out of the water for long, we would not recommend F2 ECO.

• The information provided by the manufacturer was insufficient for us and does not address the special handling requirements compared to conventional paints. With more information, the frustration with the paint would probably be less.

Note from F2 ECO (as of today): Detailed, updated instructions and checklists – especially regarding material requirements, Sparkle topcoat recommendation for DIY users, and crane/strap handling – are now available at help.f2eco.eu. In case of uncertainties, F2 ECO recommends contacting them directly (even at short notice) before or during the project to coordinate material quantities, drying times, and crane setup.